What is button spacing (lineato)?

When you work with clothing patterns and garment construction, button ligne (lineato dei bottoni) is a fundamental detail every patternmaker should know. But what does “ligne” mean, and how is it used in practice? This article explores the concept, why it matters, and how to calculate the perfect buttonhole length.

What is button ligne?

“Ligne” is a unit of measure used in the textile industry for button diameter. It is based on a standardized system:

• 1 ligne equals 0.635 mm.
• For example, a button of 32 ligne has a diameter of about 20.3 mm (32 × 0.635), rounding to 20 mm.

This system is essential for uniformity and precision when choosing buttons for the design and function of the garment.

Why ligne matters

Knowing button ligne matters for several reasons:

1. Pattern precision: It helps determine the position and size of buttonholes. 2. Aesthetics and proportion: Appropriately sized buttons improve the look of the garment. 3. Function: Buttons that are too large or too small can compromise usability.

Calculating buttonhole length

Buttonhole length is determined by the button diameter, its thickness, and a safety margin of 2 or 3 mm.

Practical example

Suppose you have a button:

• Diameter: 20 mm (about 32 ligne).
• Thickness: 4 mm.
• Safety margin: 2 mm.

Buttonhole length will be:

Buttonhole length = button diameter + button thickness + safety margin

so

Buttonhole length = 20 mm + 4 mm + 2 mm = 26 mm

Applying ligne on the pattern

1. Choosing buttons: Determined by the design and function of the garment. 2. Drawing buttonholes: Use the calculation above to create proportional buttonholes. 3. Prototyping: Test the buttonholes on the chosen fabric to make sure they work.

Notes on button ligne

• Larger buttons, typically above 20 ligne, are used for outerwear.
• Buttons below 20 ligne are common on shirts and light dresses.
• Some designs include decorative buttons that do not need buttonholes, but ligne remains useful for keeping proportion.

Conclusion

Button ligne is a small detail with a large impact on patternmaking and garment construction. Knowing and applying this unit correctly helps you create garments that look good and work well. Whether you are working on a tailored coat or a casual shirt, mastering button ligne is a skill that will make a difference in your projects.

(English translation of Marco Bagalini’s Italian original.)